I got the exhaust manifold studs out, finally.... remember I had to saw off the nuts on two of them, as well as two of the bolts that broke off.
JM said to try wedging two nuts back to back, and turning against each other. I tried that, but quickly stripped one of my two nuts 
So then I invented a new technique, I used one nut and 'mushroomed out' the end of the bolt/stud by beating on it with a hammer. I then backed out the nut, which was then locked in by the mushroomed end. Very clever, unless you want your nut back...... 
And there was still one too short for all this, so it had to be drilled out. I will have to get a tap and rethread the hole, anyone happen to know the bolt size, metric I suspect. Looks like 20 threads per inch.
Needless to say, I will be getting new studs, bolts, and threads.
Ok, as you may have seen elsewhere, I got the fender straightened out. I also fixed the radiator core support, see this thread.
I am now in the process of rebuilding the head, as per Johnny Mullet's guide. It has been straightforward thus far.
.......Until I got to the exhaust manifold. 
The bolts are seemingly fused to the head, and so rusted away that the slightest torque, er, um, snaps them off.
I have been fighting rusty screws all the way, but never so weak as these.
YES I used penetrating oil (WD-40). I should have used PB blaster, but I don't have any, and I got a little impatient, I guess.
NO I don't have access to "heat", i.e. oxy-acetylene as JM suggests. My little propane blowtorch just doesn't put out the BTU's. The engine doesn't run well enough to warm itself up, either.
So.......now that 2 of the bolts are broke off - how do I get the manifold off? what is the best procedure here?
We got the metro home Saturday. My friend has a trailer with a hydraulic dump feature, so we were able to tilt the bed of it and drove the car right up.
It is in pretty rough shape, no deep rust, but some surface rust. No carpet. The bumper is all messed up. The hatch was beat in and wouldn't open, I have already repaired that.
Here's the bad news – WATER IN THE OIL......... 
So I have to determine what exactly this means. Blown head gasket, cracked head, or external moisture.
Compression was good on 2 out of three - 190dry/210 wet, 180 dry/200 wet. I couldn't test the 3rd because the plug is rusted in place. 
The hood has not been attached for a long time, at least 2 years. The radiator seemed low, but it only took about a quart of coolant to fil it up. No expansion tank, of course. One of the ......um, round rubber radiator mounts, I'll call it.... is cracked, and when I overfilled the radiator, coolant came out of it. So the radiator may be shot, and now I'm wondering how expensive this “good deal” is going to be. At least I have a project, finally!
The alternator is also 'crunchy' feeling. The belt is long gone, and so I dont know if it will work at all. Should I go ahead and have it rebuilt, or not?
I have finally tested the third cylinder, it tested 180 dry, and 170 wet !? Not sure what that means, but it seems that a rebuild is likely. The bumper is actually fitting back together, so I am probably not going to replace it. That fiberglass is killing me, though - I feel like a porcupine 
Heres the metro I am going to get, most likely. The front end is all crumpled up, but hopefully nothing structural is damaged. I offered $200, and they took it.
I'm excited.
It's a 1996 metro, 3/5, 2 door hatchback, asking price $400. Stanford, KY (about 40 miles)
Not much info on condition, pics look good.
Like i said, they took 200. Haven't heard when to pick it up yet, probably next day or two.
