Heres the latest:

I got the exhaust manifold off, after much frustration and wasted effort. The final step involved a sabersaw.  At least it's off.




So, on with the fun part. I disassembled the head according to The Guide.



Notice the rust on the camshaft, due to the water in the oil.



All the parts in order.



Look at this gunk I found - nasty sludge.



This is the intake valve #2 after cleaning. Seems rough surfaced, may replace.





First pass over the combustion chamber - looks pretty good.